Old news by now – every local food lover was left reeling by the abrupt closure of what many considered the best restaurant in town.
Along with the continually brilliant Tei-An, York Street was always a place to take visiting food connoisseurs – and at the top of any list of recommendations to locals. I enjoyed many meals here, but lament not going more often.
Sharon's passion and respect for quality ingredients and her honest, strait-forward preparation made this little restaurant a true gem.
Here are some memories of York Street – from meals that I have previously not posted.
My Last York Street Meal:
The unassuming culinary home of all that is good and right:
After kibitzing with Sharon Hage Tuesday night at Charlie Palmer's, thoughts of her Sweetbreads and her Butterscotch Pots de Crème were nagging. Before I knew it, and scant hours later, Linda texted that she'd been dismissed from jury duty and was sitting down to lunch at York Street – I was there in record time.
^ The Avocado "Side"; and the Axis Venison Chili, graciously split three ways.
^Risotto – house made Veal Sausage, Reggiano; and the Veal Sweetbreads – melted Cabbage, Bacon Pan Sauce.
^Duck2 – soft poached Duck Egg, Duck Tongue Salad, white Toast. (heh… schwing!)
^Butterscotch Pots de Crème; the Bread Pudding. Just terrific.
I adore this restaurant. Eat. Here. Now. York Street serves lunch only on Wednesdays. Dinner: Tuesday – Saturday.
Well, even though the James Beard people persist in forestalling an acceptance speech by Chef Sharon Hage (FIVE nominations!)… we are all winners here, by her presence at the forefront of Dallas dining. I will be heading back to York Street very soon, but in the meantime – a look at a winter lunch I enjoyed a few months ago:
Perusing the wonderful menu with a little White Burgundy (surprise).
^ Soft Poached Duck Egg, with Polenta, Roast Local Chile, Corn Truffle, Queso Fresco.
^ Lobster Salad, "Lemon-y" Avacado & Endives; THE best Hummus in town – she must put crack in it.
^Scottish Game Ragu, with Risotto Rosso; Sautéed Monkfish Liver, Texas Sweet Lemon-Caper Brown Butter, Parsnip Puree. Ankimo is my favorite thing… and this dish frickin' slayed me.
We wrapped it up with some Bread Pudding and Tea. Lunch at York Street is served Wednesdays only. A winner, for sure.
Readers of this blog surely have a passion for food – perhaps even matching that of my own. In that spirit, I took my own medicine yesterday. I actually made the effort to have lunch at York Street. I love everything about this situation. Lunch is served only on Wednesday. This forced me to kinda plan ahead – and there is something so right about that. I broached the subject to "Babu," an old friend and business associate, a couple weeks ago – "you know… we really outta go down there…".
^ If the above image warms your heart, you are already in the club. If not, I invite you to join.
Sharon Hage cooks good food, period. The menu for this lunch was as expected… unexpected. Pick a dish, any dish – and enjoy perfect execution, nuance and occasionally, whimsy. My lunch guest "Babu," has the dual distinction of being my best friend (of countless
decades years) and an engaged eater. We started off with our version of "Soup and Sammich":
^The Carrot Ginger Soup; and the Grilled Cheese. Mmm hmmm.
The menu was enticing, but the special was Calf’s Liver – Babu had to have it. – The Sweetbreads called to me…
^ Calf’s Liver (have you ever seen a more palatable presentation!) And, the Four Story Veal Sweetbreads w/ French Lentils.
Are you kidding me… both delicious. Oh, and Beets!:
^ (eat more beets – I’m just sayin’)
Raspberry was the word of the day…
I really enjoyed this Raspberry Limeade… and we had the forethought to order the Raspberry Buckle, ahead. (Thanks to our terrific server’s suggestion.)
I just love this place… there were only a couple of open tables in the intimate room, the rest filled with savvy diners – enjoying a rare mid-week respite. Old friends catching up here; a casual business meeting there; an informal wine tasting (that I wish I’d have crashed) over there… It’s special.
Sharon’s reputation doesn’t precede her, it’s trying to catch up.
I may even prefer the room in the diffused soft light of day. But then, in the evening you get… the Sherry. Oh, that reminds me… we need to make a reservation…