Here we go:
Bruno has arrived. We dined with some media types on Tuesday night, then returned with friends on Thursday. Between the two visits, we’ve sampled nearly the entire new menu – check it out below.
But first, I want to give a big shout-out to my buddy Eric Brandt who, while retaining his title as Executive Sous Chef, has led the kitchen at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek with grace and skill for the past nine months. He is a class act.
^Exec. Sous Chef Eric Brandt and ^Chef d’Cuisine Jason Maddy remain in the kitchen under Executive Chef Bruno Davaillon.
Let’s start off with a bang! (No, that’s not for us…) But Bruno asks “How many at your table?” – and whips up 5 of these:
^ Amuse Bouche: Hamachi with Green Apple Mustard, Daikon, Cucumber, Apple, Jalapeño Milk. It’s killer. “That’s going on the menu,” he says.
^ Shrimp Cocktail – Horseradish Panna Cotta, Spicy Tomato Syrup; ^ Maine Lobster Salad – Tomato Confit, Caviar Cream.
^ Components of the King Crab and Butternut Squash Soup (poured at table); and the accompanying King Crab Spring Rolls.
^ Potato Gnocchi – Artichoke Barigoule, Pancetta, Basil; ^ Wild Mushroom Risotto – Duck Confit, Aged Parmesan.
^ Eric Brandt’s Tartare of Spicy Ahi Tuna and Hamachi with Yuzu Vinaigrette and Jalapeño; ^ and his Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras – Roasted Texas Red Pear, Cornbread and Coriander Honey.
^ Day Boat Scallops – Cauliflower Composition, Ice Wine Vinegar Emulsion; ^ Coriander and Chive Crusted Monkfish with Lobster Minestrone.
^ Eric’s Pan Seared Wild King Salmon – Horseradish Apples, Celery Root and Parsley; ^ and new, Chorizo Crusted Atlantic Halibut – Stuffed Piquillo Pepper and White Bean Puree.
^ Duo of Prime Beef Ribeye and Brisket Short Rib – Potato Fondant and Gorgonzola Cream.
^ Bison Tenderloin “au Poivre” – Autumn Vegetable Fricassee; ^ Roasted Veal Loin – Crispy Sweetbreads, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Fig Chutney.
^ As I document the goings-on, Mansion Wine & Beverage Director and Sommelier Michael Flynn drops by with a spot of wine. Meanwhile my table-mates consume most of my delicious Lobster and Cavatelli Pasta – Pancetta, Peas and Mint (hence no photo).
^ Bruno prepping the “Special”…
^ Sous Vide of Pheasant Breast – “Sausage” of Pheasant Leg, Foie Gras and Pancetta, rolled in Pistachios. With sautéed Green Cabbage, White Grapes and Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Roasted Quince and Seckel Pear.
Bruno’s additions to the Dessert Menu: ^ Mansion “Candy Bar” with Lemon Thai Basil Sorbet; ^ Maple & Macadamia Nut Napoleon with poached Seckel Pear.
^ Apple Seven Ways – I had this twice. That’s, like, 14 apples. (‘Apple Composition’: Apple Clafoutis, Poached Apple, Apple Sorbet, Compote of Granny Smith’s, Green Apple Foam, Crisp Apple Wheel, there’s another one in there, too…)
^ Lingering after service.
So…? Well, it’s no secret that I am a fan of this place… and I am very excited about the food I enjoyed on these visits – as were my dining companions, as are the staff. Bruno – the man, and his food seem a perfect fit for this elegant and evolving institution. I hope to see you here. On this particular evening, I joined some friends at The Mansion’s Wine Chat, hosted by Michael Flynn each Thursday at 6:15:
It’s fun, educational, only $25 and you never know what Michael is going to break out – typically four or five wines are offered, on a theme. I famously missed the wines of Burgundy one week, and have yet to hear the end of it! Read more about Wine Chat here.
Had a rather lengthy and fascinating chat with the new guy after service this evening (about stuff that matters… and food as well). Rosewood got him here and he's game. Dallas, he's ready to play – don't be lame this time. Let's go!
More with Chef Bruno Davaillon to come.
Sweeeet. Eaten at Alain Ducasse's MIX in Las Vegas several times – I dig it. Its chef, Bruno Davaillon, will debut in the kitchen at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek in November as the new Executive Chef. Count me in. I didn't have a decent camera with me last time I dined at MIX…
^ The view from the nightclub wing, the terrace dining tables are at left.
^ Dinner; they brand you at the hostess stand. (Actually, late night, the bar turns into a club – best view to enjoy a scotch on the strip.
Welcome, chef, and beware the snarky bastards that slink around the Dallas blogosphere!
You know, wine dinners can really be a blast. I attend far too few, I have determined. One that I did make it to recently was the Ole wine dinner at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek.
Orange – w/ Bodegas
Ladera Sagrada Godello “Papa” 2007.
Greens, dried Cherries and Almonds: this was really delicious. The stuffing echoed the fruit of the Vinos Sin-Ley Rose
“Gordo” 2007, while the smoke on the quail countered the sweetness. (See what cool stuff you pick up at these things?!)
Ballesteros “Perfil de Mibal” 2004 & Vinos
Piñol Mather Teresina 2003/4. This was a fun course:
We had a cool little send-off get together for John Tesar last night at Dali Wine Bar & Cellar – a few current and some former Mansion peeps, friends, food-whores… John is already running the kitchen of the HOT SPOT Fishtail by David Burke in Manhattan.
Dali is one of my favorite places. I have a jillion pics from my many visits, but had yet to write something up – but this is as good a time as any.
Proprietor Paul Pinnel (above) knows of my recently acquired passion for White Burgundy – so there's always trouble when I drop by. While the other revelers enjoyed their selections, my clique and I staked a claim down the bar a piece – and decadence ensued:
My guest (the mischievous laptoppetite herself) claims now to be ruined – after imbibing such luxury. "Well, ya gotta start somewhere," I advised.
^B-Rad, JLowe, JT; and Teiichi Sakurai of Tei-An, also located at One Arts Plaza..
We had a great time – then, of course, other shenanigans transpired.
If Paul will let me back in Dali any-time soon, I'll get with Chef Joel Harloff and feature some of his delicious food. A preview (these from NYE):
While Nancy Nichols tromps around Belgium, she asked me and a couple other Dallas food bloggers to pitch in and post some stuff on the D Magazine SideDish blog. I was tryin' not to slack, so I posted this item: The Tesar Interview.
Finally, our schedules got in sync and I was able to join Chef John Tesar in the kitchen and document a full evening of service. Of particular interest was the preparation of the dishes served at the Chef's Table.
I will be putting together a comprehensive feature, culling through the 500 pics and providing some enticing detail on the dishes. Here is a sneak:
Some more pics to whet your appetite while we continue to compile the full story:
And below, some out-takes: the spoils… I got to sample many of the dishes, right there in the kitchen. Foodie crack, to be sure!