For Leslie, here's a quickie post of some exceptional food I've recently enjoyed:
@ Tei-An ^ Tobiuo Sashimi (line-caught Flying Fish) with Ume Shiso Ae; ^ and my fave: Ankimo.
@ The Mansion:^ Bruno tried this "Surf & Turf" dish out on me as I sat in the bar: Crispy Pork Belly & Lobster Claws, Spicy Tamarind/Soy Sauce, Green Asparagus and Fresh Herb Salad. A version of this may show up here this Spring.
While I wait to be able to tell you what I know (and why I am excited) about what Tesar has up his sleeve – I thought I would remind everyone about a certain detail lost in the vitriol backing up the local blogosphere: Tesar can cook. Here is some of the food I enjoyed during his previous stint in Dallas:
Here's hoping we will have this stuff locally again, soon.
Here we go:
Bruno has arrived. We dined with some media types on Tuesday night, then returned with friends on Thursday. Between the two visits, we’ve sampled nearly the entire new menu – check it out below.
But first, I want to give a big shout-out to my buddy Eric Brandt who, while retaining his title as Executive Sous Chef, has led the kitchen at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek with grace and skill for the past nine months. He is a class act.
^Exec. Sous Chef Eric Brandt and ^Chef d’Cuisine Jason Maddy remain in the kitchen under Executive Chef Bruno Davaillon.
Let’s start off with a bang! (No, that’s not for us…) But Bruno asks “How many at your table?” – and whips up 5 of these:
^ Amuse Bouche: Hamachi with Green Apple Mustard, Daikon, Cucumber, Apple, Jalapeño Milk. It’s killer. “That’s going on the menu,” he says.
^ Shrimp Cocktail – Horseradish Panna Cotta, Spicy Tomato Syrup; ^ Maine Lobster Salad – Tomato Confit, Caviar Cream.
^ Components of the King Crab and Butternut Squash Soup (poured at table); and the accompanying King Crab Spring Rolls.
^ Potato Gnocchi – Artichoke Barigoule, Pancetta, Basil; ^ Wild Mushroom Risotto – Duck Confit, Aged Parmesan.
^ Eric Brandt’s Tartare of Spicy Ahi Tuna and Hamachi with Yuzu Vinaigrette and Jalapeño; ^ and his Seared Hudson Valley Foie Gras – Roasted Texas Red Pear, Cornbread and Coriander Honey.
^ Day Boat Scallops – Cauliflower Composition, Ice Wine Vinegar Emulsion; ^ Coriander and Chive Crusted Monkfish with Lobster Minestrone.
^ Eric’s Pan Seared Wild King Salmon – Horseradish Apples, Celery Root and Parsley; ^ and new, Chorizo Crusted Atlantic Halibut – Stuffed Piquillo Pepper and White Bean Puree.
^ Duo of Prime Beef Ribeye and Brisket Short Rib – Potato Fondant and Gorgonzola Cream.
^ Bison Tenderloin “au Poivre” – Autumn Vegetable Fricassee; ^ Roasted Veal Loin – Crispy Sweetbreads, Chanterelle Mushrooms, Fig Chutney.
^ As I document the goings-on, Mansion Wine & Beverage Director and Sommelier Michael Flynn drops by with a spot of wine. Meanwhile my table-mates consume most of my delicious Lobster and Cavatelli Pasta – Pancetta, Peas and Mint (hence no photo).
^ Bruno prepping the “Special”…
^ Sous Vide of Pheasant Breast – “Sausage” of Pheasant Leg, Foie Gras and Pancetta, rolled in Pistachios. With sautéed Green Cabbage, White Grapes and Black Trumpet Mushrooms, Roasted Quince and Seckel Pear.
Bruno’s additions to the Dessert Menu: ^ Mansion “Candy Bar” with Lemon Thai Basil Sorbet; ^ Maple & Macadamia Nut Napoleon with poached Seckel Pear.
^ Apple Seven Ways – I had this twice. That’s, like, 14 apples. (‘Apple Composition’: Apple Clafoutis, Poached Apple, Apple Sorbet, Compote of Granny Smith’s, Green Apple Foam, Crisp Apple Wheel, there’s another one in there, too…)
^ Lingering after service.
So…? Well, it’s no secret that I am a fan of this place… and I am very excited about the food I enjoyed on these visits – as were my dining companions, as are the staff. Bruno – the man, and his food seem a perfect fit for this elegant and evolving institution. I hope to see you here. On this particular evening, I joined some friends at The Mansion’s Wine Chat, hosted by Michael Flynn each Thursday at 6:15:
It’s fun, educational, only $25 and you never know what Michael is going to break out – typically four or five wines are offered, on a theme. I famously missed the wines of Burgundy one week, and have yet to hear the end of it! Read more about Wine Chat here.
Had a rather lengthy and fascinating chat with the new guy after service this evening (about stuff that matters… and food as well). Rosewood got him here and he's game. Dallas, he's ready to play – don't be lame this time. Let's go!
More with Chef Bruno Davaillon to come.
The unassuming culinary home of all that is good and right:
After kibitzing with Sharon Hage Tuesday night at Charlie Palmer's, thoughts of her Sweetbreads and her Butterscotch Pots de Crème were nagging. Before I knew it, and scant hours later, Linda texted that she'd been dismissed from jury duty and was sitting down to lunch at York Street – I was there in record time.
^ The Avocado "Side"; and the Axis Venison Chili, graciously split three ways.
^Risotto – house made Veal Sausage, Reggiano; and the Veal Sweetbreads – melted Cabbage, Bacon Pan Sauce.
^Duck2 – soft poached Duck Egg, Duck Tongue Salad, white Toast. (heh… schwing!)
^Butterscotch Pots de Crème; the Bread Pudding. Just terrific.
I adore this restaurant. Eat. Here. Now. York Street serves lunch only on Wednesdays. Dinner: Tuesday – Saturday.
My quest for exceptional cured meats has me lately hovering around the kitchen of Charlie Palmer at The Joule. Of interest last night was the 'Pigs and Pinot' dinner offered this week as it features "Pork Trio," not to mention Grilled Pork Belly. Chef Palmer was in town for a couple days pimpin' his new "Charlie and Clay" private label wine – so, seemed time for a post. Oh, and some friends dropped by as well.
^Executive Chef Scott Romano (center), and Charlie Palmer (right).
^Executive Chef Scott Romano in his kitchen.
^The Pork Trio, consisting of: ^ Sautéed Head Cheese;
^Country Pate; ^Foie Gras and Pork Jowl Terrine.
^Pork Trio at the table. This is a killer dish.
^Grilled Pork Belly – Apple Soubise, Clementine, Braised Red Cabbage. This dish will kill you!
^Grilled Pork Belly; and from pastry chef Ruben Torano: the Poached Comice Pear – Chevre Sorbet, Red Berry Compote.
Small Plates were passed, including:
We were talking with the lovely and talented Sharon Hage about what's doing for lunch this week when Chef Romano brought out this number for her to sample:
^It's a sous vide Squab dish: Porchetta / Braised Leg / Brown Butter Spaghetti Squash. Amazing.
Sharon helped style the dish for my photo, then grabbed us some forks and bade us 'Dig in!"
Big fun, kids. And, Sharon, see you soon!
Sweeeet. Eaten at Alain Ducasse's MIX in Las Vegas several times – I dig it. Its chef, Bruno Davaillon, will debut in the kitchen at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek in November as the new Executive Chef. Count me in. I didn't have a decent camera with me last time I dined at MIX…
^ The view from the nightclub wing, the terrace dining tables are at left.
^ Dinner; they brand you at the hostess stand. (Actually, late night, the bar turns into a club – best view to enjoy a scotch on the strip.
Welcome, chef, and beware the snarky bastards that slink around the Dallas blogosphere!
Well, even though the James Beard people persist in forestalling an acceptance speech by Chef Sharon Hage (FIVE nominations!)… we are all winners here, by her presence at the forefront of Dallas dining. I will be heading back to York Street very soon, but in the meantime – a look at a winter lunch I enjoyed a few months ago:
Perusing the wonderful menu with a little White Burgundy (surprise).
^ Soft Poached Duck Egg, with Polenta, Roast Local Chile, Corn Truffle, Queso Fresco.
^ Lobster Salad, "Lemon-y" Avacado & Endives; THE best Hummus in town – she must put crack in it.
^Scottish Game Ragu, with Risotto Rosso; Sautéed Monkfish Liver, Texas Sweet Lemon-Caper Brown Butter, Parsnip Puree. Ankimo is my favorite thing… and this dish frickin' slayed me.
We wrapped it up with some Bread Pudding and Tea. Lunch at York Street is served Wednesdays only. A winner, for sure.