Exceptional

Chef John Tesar’s Spoon Bar & Kitchen

Obviously, I was looking forward to the opening of Chef John Tesar's Spoon Bar & Kitchen in Preston Center for some time.

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Everyone knows John and I are buddies – (I have no financial interest in the
restaurant, however I have consulted on certain design elements).
Regardless, it is my opinion that Spoon is excellent and is another
important chapter in the renaissance of the Dallas dining scene.

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As the critics chime in (Dallas Observer, Modern Luxury, Dallas Morning News) the consensus has been extremely positive – I concur …and I get around. This place is good.
But critics are not always able to experience a restaurant with the depth afforded a devoted, food obsessed patron.

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With that in mind, I'll do what I do best – here are a bunch of
pictures from some of the many meals I've enjoyed at Spoon, along with my trademark sentence fragments:

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Spoon already has a crowd of devoted regulars and still sees its share
of curious customers looking for a glimpse of the deftly crafted
character Tesar has created and Top Chef promoted – "The Most Hated Chef
in Dallas."

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^Crudos

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^L: Oyster and Truffle Stew

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^L: Lobster Pot Pie

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^ Remarkable Smoked Sturgeon Head Cheese.

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Sommelier Sabrina Snodderley's wine program features interesting and nicely priced
selections that match wonderfully with the food. John and Sabrina
continue to add depth to the White Burgundy program – music to my ears.

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Tesar's passion and pedigree are reflected in the constantly evolving
menu of exceptional seafood dishes as well as other "Not Fish"
selections (not pictured, lol.)

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The recent addition of David Collier as pastry chef completes the meal in an artful manner – creative, whimsical and delicious:

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To be sure, Tesar has his fair share of haters, and now – many more devotees. He is without question an outstanding seafood chef.

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Spoon is easily one of the most important and exceptional new
Dallas restaurants to open in some time. The city's diners, critics, and even bloggers need to support and
encourage more of this passionate risk-taking and attention to detail –
not
less. …and the place also has a cool logo.

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Spoon Bar & Kitchen on Urbanspoon

The Brad at The French Laundry

As The French Laundry chef de cuisine Timothy Hollingsworth prepares to hand over the reigns to his executive sous chef David Breeden, we popped in for a blowout.

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Here’s what went down (and nicely, I might add):

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^L: Amuse.
^R: “OYSTERS AND PEARLS”
“Sabayon” of Pearl Tapioca with Island Creek Oysters and White Sturgeon Caviar.

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^L: “OEUFS EN GELEE” Royal Ossetra Caviar. Brioche “Soldiers.” Lobster “Salpicon” and Scaliion Salad.
^R: Beurre

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^L: SALAD OF FRENCH LAUNDRY GARDEN FENNEL Tokyo Turnips. Sour Michigan Cherries. Sicilian Pistachios and Mache.
^R: “KOULIBIAC” OF COLUMBIA RIVER STURGEON “Pomme Puree,” Nantes Carrots and Tarragon Jus.

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^R: SWEET BUTTER-POACHED MAINE LOBSTER “FRICASSEE” Caraway Melba. Heirloom Beets. Melted Cabbage and Horseradish Creme Fraiche.

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^L: RUSSET POTATO GNOCCHI with Shaved Black Winter Truffles.
^R: Some old bottle of wine…

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^L: SALMON CREEK FARMS PORK BELLY “EN FEUILLE DE BRICK” Gamet Yam.. Brussels Sprouts. Pearson Farm Pecans. Noble Maple Syrup and Black Truffle.
^R: HERB-ROASTED ELYSIAN FIELDS FARM LAMB SADDLE Pearl Barley. Creamed Mushrooms. Petite Onions. Mizuna and Sauce “Soubise.”

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^R: “BREBIS DES PYRENEES” Moroccan Olive. Piquillo Pepper Marmalade. Pine Nuts. Eggplant and Olive Oil Jam.

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^L: POMEGRANATE “SODA” Jasmine Ice Cream and “Fleur de Sel” Shortbread.
^R: PASSION FRUIT “SWISS ROLL” Valrhona Chocolate Cremeux, Caramel Mousse and Banana Ice Cream.

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^R: “Coffee and Doughnuts>”

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What’s not to like? A wonderful experience.
On a side note: It’s nice to realize after a meal like this just what talent we have here in Dallas. Bruno Davaillon’s tasting menu at The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek is equally superb. An omakase meal from Teiichi Sakurai at Tei-An is equally sublime. Enjoy!

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The French Laundry on Urbanspoon

Dallas’ John Tesar, Danyele McPherson, and Joshua Valentine on Top Chef Season 10 in Seattle. Let the fur fly!

The Bravo details:

http://www.bravotv.com/blogs/the-dish/top-chef-season-10-is-coming-your-way

 

“… is everybody in? The ceremony is about to begin.”

This is about to get crazy all up in here.

Saturday Lunch with Bruno Davaillon at The Mansion, Dallas

As exceptional as Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek chef Bruno Davaillon's dinner tasting menus are, a little light lunch can be equally stunning. Err – light, in this case, may refer only to the time of day! Check this out:

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^ Crispy Pig Trotter, Watercress / Horseradish Sauce, Pickled Vegetables. 

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 ^ Pan-seared Sweetbread, Carbonara Ravioli, Sunchoke / Black Truffle Sauce.

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 ^ Duck Meatballs, Duck Consomme, Foie Gras, Black Trumpets, Green Cabbage, Chestnuts.

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^L: Chatham Cod, Potato / Cod Brandade, Tomato Confit, Capers, Lemon Brown Butter.

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^ Chesnut Mont Blanc, Chocolate Macaron, Vanilla Chantilly, Rum Ice Cream.

Yes – a little crazy – but ridiculously well-crafted and delicious. And better than another steak and bottle of – Heaven forbid – Silver Oak. 

A reminder to occasionally expand your horizons, and your palate. Cheers!

Timely update: Bruno Davaillon has just been nominated for the James Beard Foundation's Best Chef Southwest award. Sweet! 

Mansion on Turtle Creek on Urbanspoon

Immersed in the Dream: Romera New York, NYC

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On Sept 22nd, I was able to dine at the fascinating new restaurant Romera New York – located at the Dream Hotel Downtown in the Meatpacking District. Michelin-starred neurologist/chef Dr. Miguel Sánchez Romera, of L'Esguard outside of Barcelona, was brought stateside by Sant Singh Chatwal to head the Dream Hotel's flagship restaurant.

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They have a strict "NO PHOTO" policy, but I was able to take just a few shots before being informed of it and respectfully complying. Above: the chef's wife (L) and translator (R) look over the interior herb gardens.

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Vintage Versace china and Christofle flatware called for a '98 Krug Clos du Mesnil to kick things off.

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The menu: 11 courses. $245. Not that anyone's counting…

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Here is the menu, transcribed. Each course was also accompanied by "ingredient-driven waters that compliment the flavors and aromatic properties of each dish."

FIRST
EIRO
A coupage of extra virgin olive oils accompanied by a pistachio and mint puree, a black olive puree, mini pansy flowers, rose water, crisp potatoes, pollen grains and poppy seeds.

APRILS
A creamy mousse of seaweed and shellfish wrapped in a fine, transparent sheet of rose water marinated the Daikon radish and flower petals.

CLORIS
Toro and hamachi tuna overlaid with seasonal flowers and freshly snipped aromatic herbs with coconut cream and crystalline sauces of jasmine and orange blossom.

SECOND
OMNIUM
Twelve varieties of grains drizzled with olive oil encircling a smooth tandoori sauce topped with black olive jam and sliced black truffles.

ISIS
A Romarian mosaic of dried vegetables with vanilla and wild garlic aroma, garden-fresh mini vegetables with Cassavia butter en-cocotte followed by a vegetable soup.

THIRD
ROSA DEL AZAFRAN
King salmon with savory aromas of saffron, orange, ginger and beets accompanied by smoked shellfish cream and salmon roe.

EUTERPES
Foie gras poele with a fine layer of white chocolate Cassavia gel topped with radish, strands of garlic, rose water and beets, tandoori, turmeric, ceps, rosemary, and vegetable charcoal accompanied by smoked eggplant mousse and a sauce of black truffle, ginger and aromatic herbs.

IOCUNDUS
New York strip loin on the grill with black truffle butter and garlic served over a Romerian mosaic of cheese, bacon, onion and tomato, completed with a homemade sauce of smoked black truffles and ceps.

FOURTH
POLICROMI
Strawberry, kiwi, mango and blackberry sorbets coated with natural lemongrass and served over a mousse of lychee with white chocolate.

LIBENTIA
A homemade dark chocolate soup served over sweet banana and dark chocolate cake with orange and white chocolate confiture and gold leaf flakes.

DENIQUE
A selection of sweets featuring our in-house production of Romero Chocolate Gourmand bonbons and tablets, along with signature bonbons filled with coffee cream made from a homemade Coffee Gourmand, carrot cake with lemon, vanilla and saffron and tandoori meringue with mint cream.

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The take-away: cards describing the inspiration behind each dish.

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A quick Google search will return an avalanche of negative comments from early diners on various mass critisism sites. "Preposterous!" "Pretentious!" "Bonkers!"

My take? LOVED it. I'm not a casual diner and my dinner companion had capped an impressive culinary tour of Michelined Europe with one of the final seatings at elBulli earlier in the year. We found it whimsical, visually breathtaking, and fascinating on the palate. Obviously, it's ridiculously expensive – remember that this is my only hobby, this sport dining thing. Romera's "neurogastronomy" may not be for everyone, but it is certainly not the work of a madman – well, perhaps… but I dig it.

The waters were fun and did progress the meal in an unusual and pleasant manner. But the Clos du Mesnil didn't hurt!

The platings were exquisite - some examples can be found on the Romera website, but not even the most impressive are featured.

The next day I was chatting about the experience with another multi-Michelin-starred New York chef who had also dined at Romera earlier in the week. He, too, found the experience remarkable and his eyes gleamed as we recounted the meal. But, he knows New York. If the reviews don't come in, he could see how New York would – eat this one alive. 

UPDATE: Seems like some of the traditional media is having a positive first reaction. Here is what the Wall Street Journal's Katy McLaughlin has to say in the piece Romera New York: Does the Food Live Up to the Hype? (Hint: it does.) Katy was allowed to take a few snaps.

Romera on Urbanspoon

Chillin’ at Lucia, Dallas

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So, everybody knows I have an unnatural relationship with White Burgundy. Last weekend I had Italian white wine on my mind and realized I didn't have much experience with Italian Chardonnay wines. I googled around Piedmont and Alto Adige, ruminated on pinot bianco, and salivated. Since Jeremy or Alfonso weren't handy with samples, the urge to visit Lucia grew more intense than usual.

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Within moments of stepping inside Lucia last Wednesday evening, Jennifer Ugyur and I were in deep discussion. I know what I need and I need it now. Bam! Let's try this: Bastianich Vespa Bianco, a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Picolit from the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. Like, yep.

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Well, now we have to eat 'cause I need to drink this – and my friend Maria wants to start with red – and…

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^ Salumi misti – Rabbit and pistachio pâté, fennel/orange salame, porchetta, soppressata,
Duck salame cotto, Iardo and chicken liver crostini. Love it.
^^ Crostini with chicken liver and black mission figs.

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^ Fritto misto of baby squid, smelt and rock shrimp and with a green almond aioli.
^^ Chickpea soup with rosemary and olive oil.

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^ Rabbit tortelloni en brodo.
^^ Cavatelli with lamb ragu, pecorino and mint. Nice!

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^ Chef David Ugyur always has something else up his sleeve. As he know my love of sea urchin – this time he whipped up: Smoked lardo on crostini with sea urchin over slow scamled eggs. Frickin' awesome.

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^ Slow-cooked pork shoulder with lady cream peas.
^^ Carnaroli pudding with blueberries and almonds.

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We closed down the place, sipping away. This was Maria's first visit and beside the food being wonderful across the board, she was really struck by the warmth and care demonstrated by everyone we came in contact with – the lovely Fauna at the door, co-owner and wine director Jennifer Ugyur, and our excellent server Michael (previosly at York Stree and Aurora).

Nice job, once again.

Chef John Tesar’s Premiere Dinner at The Table – Dallas

Check this out:

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JT knew what he was doing when he conceived a new use for this space adjoining his buzzing The Commissary at One Arts Plaza. Another magical room emerges in Dallas.

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^ Some friends gather for Chef John Tesar’s Premiere Dinner at The Table on May 2. As it was a Monday we were joined by the Uygur’s from Lucia, The Mansion‘s Bruno Davaillon and Michael Flynn, Tim Byres of Smoke, and One Arts Plaza neighbor Tei-An‘s Teiichi Sakurai (That’s a ghostly Scott Barber at right, doing somm duties this evening).

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^ a nod to a Tesar favorite, Mugaritz. …obviously we “submit.”

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The Table will feature canapés, 4 – 6 courses, cheese, pre-dessert, dessert, and candy cart. Tonight we were treated to 13 courses – I mean, how often do we get THIS group together for dinner…?

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^ canapés: fava bean and pecorino salad; Spicer’s pumpkin blossom with Paula’s riccotta; molten foie gras ball; seared tuna; clam consommé.

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^ bread from Empire Bakery; and the amuse-bouche – octopus salad.

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^ oyster consommé with american sturgeon caviar; and faux cuttle fish pasta with iberico pork and lemon fondue – raves.

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^ seared diver scallop and beef tongue with mint salsa verde; and little neck clam and honj meni mushroom risotto with fine herbs and clam emulsion.

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The Table concept is a reimaginning of Tesar’s Chef’s Table at The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek – for a different time. Elegant, approachable – casual and fun. And priced at a discount.

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^ a mid course: fried duck egg in brown butter with white oregon truffles; and pork belly with uni, lardo, shiso and white oregon truffles.

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^ butter poached lobster with melted leeks, port syrup and raw foie gras; and whole roasted sweet breads with Spicer’s micros, shaved truffles and truffle vinaigrette.

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^ artisanal cheeses!

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^ Pastry chef Corey Thomson’s pre-dessert: strawberry panna cotta with roasted strawberries and strawberry foam; and dessert: yuzu and lime tart with green tea ice cream.

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Corey bagging candy to go.

Nice. The Table begins.

Martensen, Williams, Chef John Tesar Create Magic at The Cedars Social, Dallas

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At the corner of Belleview and South Lamar, something special is going on: The Cedars Social.

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^ Michael Martensen and crew prepare impeccably crafted “Golden Era”  and “Tribute” cocktails.

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^ In the kitchen, Chef John Tesar has created a menu unlike any other in Dallas – inspired by late night chef destinations like NYC’s Blue Ribbon Brasserie and The Spotted Pig.

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^ Tuna Crudo w/ Green Apple, Jalapeño, Avocado; ^ Grilled Braised Short Rib Sliders – Collard Greens, Horseradish Mayonnaise on Brioche Rolls.

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^ Chicken & Yeast Waffles with Maple-Black Pepper Reduction; ^ Lollipop Lamb Chops – Bleu Cheese Butter, Roquefort, Red Wine/Lamb Stock.

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^ Nola Style Grilled Fisher Island Oysters with Garlic Butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, Pecorino; ^ Diver Scallops with Salsa Verde on Creamy Polenta.

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^ Sweet and Sour Sausage & Peppers with Grilled Tuscan Garlic Bread and Rustic Tomato Sauce.

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^ Grilled Braised Octopus with Avocado, Garlic Aioli, Garlic Puree and a Warm Salad of Chorizo and Celery Hearts. (F’ing amazing.)

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^ Butter Poached Deadliest Catch King Crab with Garlic Foam and Parsley Puree; ^ Sous Vide Hanger Steak with Creamy Mashed Potatoes and Bordelaise Sauce.

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^ Hand-Rolled Penne with Spicy Bolognese.

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^ Fresh Fruit Crisp; ^ a clean reduction.

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^ Crispy Braised Pork Belly with Collard Greens and Pork Jus.

^ Tesar has been in the kitchen nightly for the past two months. He will hand off daily duties to his accomplished staff as he opens his new One Arts Plaza wine, burger, and chef’s table venture – The Commissary – in early April.

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^ Back at the bar; ^ Don’t mind the Veuve – it’s a cool shot! Consulting sommelier D’Lynn Proctor offers splits of Krug – to much rejoicing.

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^ Classic Mac & Cheese; ^ Hamachi Ribs (inspired by Teiichi Sakurai of Tei-An) with Jalapeño Oil and Fin Herbs.

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^ Pig’s Ear Milanese with Duck Egg; ^ and an amazing Tripe Parmesan.

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^ Sliced Pork Belly; and the pièce de résistance: Tempura Sweetbreads with Thai Chile Mayonnaise.

For more pics of the space itself, please see my previous posts on Cedars’ pre-opening Supper Bowl dinners by Tim Byres and JT.

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^ This says it all – Owner Brian Williams (L) hosts our motley crew at the Cedars Social patio fire-pit, 1:45am. Magic.

The Cedars Social on Urbanspoon

Quick Peek – Bruno Davaillon’s new Spring Menu – The Mansion, Dallas.

Last Thursday, after Michael Flynn’s Pinot Gris edition of Wine Chat, I headed into the kitchen at The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek for a peek at chef Bruno Davaillon’s new spring menu.

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First up: ^ a fully vegetarian option – Vegetable Consomme, Goat Cheese Tortellini, Basil. It’s green, spring, delightful!

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^ Sous vide Rhubarb for the: ^ Seared Foie Gras – Rhubarb, Caramelized Pistachio, Pickled Strawberry. This was fabulous – perfectly balanced fat and acid. Bravo.

Bruno’s new Spring Menu (over 90% new dishes) should be rolled out by next weekend. Stay tuned for more details!