TheBrad

Bruno Davaillon’s Frisee Salad with Sauteed Chicken Livers. The Mansion, Dallas

So taken were we with the piece in the September issue of Wine Spectator featuring Chef Bruno Davaillon of The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek and his Chicken Liver Salad With Rosé, that some friends and I got together and asked him to whip us up a lunch featuring the dish.

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The Tortilla Soup may never disappear, but this dish is a far cry:

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^ Bruno's Frisée Salad with Sautéed Chicken Livers, Poached Egg, Shallot and Croutons, here paired with Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel Rosé. The recipe is now available here.

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^ A lovely fish course.

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^ An apple dessert composition from Mansion pastry chef Nicolas Blouin.

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What a beautiful way to spend a Saturday afternoon, bravo Bruno.

Chillin’ at Lucia, Dallas

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So, everybody knows I have an unnatural relationship with White Burgundy. Last weekend I had Italian white wine on my mind and realized I didn't have much experience with Italian Chardonnay wines. I googled around Piedmont and Alto Adige, ruminated on pinot bianco, and salivated. Since Jeremy or Alfonso weren't handy with samples, the urge to visit Lucia grew more intense than usual.

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Within moments of stepping inside Lucia last Wednesday evening, Jennifer Ugyur and I were in deep discussion. I know what I need and I need it now. Bam! Let's try this: Bastianich Vespa Bianco, a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon and Picolit from the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. Like, yep.

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Well, now we have to eat 'cause I need to drink this – and my friend Maria wants to start with red – and…

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^ Salumi misti – Rabbit and pistachio pâté, fennel/orange salame, porchetta, soppressata,
Duck salame cotto, Iardo and chicken liver crostini. Love it.
^^ Crostini with chicken liver and black mission figs.

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^ Fritto misto of baby squid, smelt and rock shrimp and with a green almond aioli.
^^ Chickpea soup with rosemary and olive oil.

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^ Rabbit tortelloni en brodo.
^^ Cavatelli with lamb ragu, pecorino and mint. Nice!

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^ Chef David Ugyur always has something else up his sleeve. As he know my love of sea urchin – this time he whipped up: Smoked lardo on crostini with sea urchin over slow scamled eggs. Frickin' awesome.

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^ Slow-cooked pork shoulder with lady cream peas.
^^ Carnaroli pudding with blueberries and almonds.

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We closed down the place, sipping away. This was Maria's first visit and beside the food being wonderful across the board, she was really struck by the warmth and care demonstrated by everyone we came in contact with – the lovely Fauna at the door, co-owner and wine director Jennifer Ugyur, and our excellent server Michael (previosly at York Stree and Aurora).

Nice job, once again.

Magazine Watch: Bruno Davaillon in Wine Spectator

While we wait around for the circus to come when Tesar's D Magazine cover story hits the fan, here is a nice piece in the September issue of Wine Spectator featuring Chef Bruno Davaillon of The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek.

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The issue features French chefs with major operations in the US, including Alain Ducasse, Pierre Gagnaire, Joël Robuchon, Guy Savoy, Eric Ripert, Hubert Keller, Jean Joho, George Mavrothalassitis, David Féau, and Guy Savoy.

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There is a tease to Bruno's recipe – which is after the paywall – so go pick up a copy along with the new issue of D Magazine!

Fighting Food Blog Fatigue in the Dog Days of Dallas Summer.

Thought I’d feature this one again (yes I realize it’s raining – I posted this in August!):

The air is too damn hot! I have REAL work to do! What’s up with all these blogs all the sudden?!

Yes, it’s hot. Yes, I’m extremely busy at my actual job and laser focused on the launch of this little piece of social media magic. And, yes, the for-profit Dallas food blog scene is now crowded with major new players.

These realities had conspired to place TheBrad’s Blog on hiatus, from which it is now returning. Since I do this blog mainly for fun and not for income, I needed to redefine its focus in order to inspire its future. Being less interested in breaking news, scandal, releasing press, or tabloid shenanigans than, say, food porn – is telling. So we’ll get back to the original passion of the blog:

Phoodojournalism.

Sexy pics of food and wine, the environs they occupy, the passionate people behind their creation and presentation – and a few sentence fragments to hold it all together.

I do have some other stuff up my sleeve. I am a filmmaker and am a partner in a major social media management firm, after all – so there are shenanigans of my own design afoot. But the main purpose of this blog is to share with you moments, tastes, spaces that I find exceptional or at least worth your time to seek out.

I have a backlog of literally 70 stories, many too good to let slip by, so I’ll be posting events from the last year or so along with current adventures. In the context of adding to the record I hope you will find this a continually entertaining experience.

Thanks for dropping by, and enjoy!

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^ A fooding frenzy! Breaking news and press media dinners are well covered by other blogger pals, though I attend these events on rare occasion. (This media dinner at Screen Door was .

I frequent many of the establishments that I cover often, and accept invitations to certain charity events to “help the cause,” and… have some fun. Otherwise – I take pics of food that intrigues me – prepared by people who’s talent I respect, and often who’s friendship I cherish.

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^ Inspiration. My friend of 16 years returns to his roots for my B-Day dinner.

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^ Integrity. ThePack.

Korean with a personal touch – Yourim Restaurant, Dallas

It's fair to say that I do get around – to a large number of Asian restaurants anyway. Friends of many cultures take me to a variety of establishments, but when certain chefs make a point to drag me somewhere multiple times… noteworthy.
Here at Yourim, located next to Mac Karaoke in the Korean enclave of Royal & 35, we find familiar dishes – made with integrity, detail… and love.

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^ Jokbal – sliced pig's feet. Traditionally eaten wrapped in lettuce. Here with many delicious banchan.

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^ Banchan detail.

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^ Jokbal preparation. ^ and Pajeo with seafood – a pancake made from eggs, rice flour, and here – green leeks. Wonderful.

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Soups on!

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^ GopChang JunGol… Intestines of Ox, tripe, vegetables… amazing.

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^ the previous week we did the YumSo JunGol – an excellent goat and vegetable soup.

Love this place. We go late, you can enjoy Soju until 2am, and food until 4am.

I have heard some discussion that the restaurant's name is "Youlim."  When I asked at the restaurant they pointed to the menu. It's somewhere lost in translation.

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Regardless, Find it at 2525 Royal Ln, #317, Dallas, 75229. And as Andrew comments below, yes they are off to Korea 'til late September! I might have told you guys that part – d'oh!

Tei-An turning Three!

I'm already celebrating!

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Tei-An's 3rd Anniversary festivities commence Monday, August 8, 2011 at 7 p.m. Food, beer, sake, Hunter, $10 – all good.

Deets here. Drool here.

Taste of the Nation Dallas coming to Stephan Pyles

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I ran over to Stephan Pyles‘ the other day to see what was up – and do the photo-op thing. Here is Crawford Brock, the owner of Stanley Korshak, presenting a $20,000 check to Stephan Pyles for Share Our Strength’s Taste of the Nation Dallas. The national organization raises funds for anti-childhood hunger campaigns at the local level through culinary events. This year’s Taste of the Nation Dallas event takes place this Sunday at Stephan Pyles. It’s nearly sold out now, but there may be a few tickets left. Check them out here.

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After the promotional festivities, Stephan decided to whip me up some grub.

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^ Licorice Root skewered Beef Tenderloin with Curried Sweet Potatoes, a Humita (Corn Tamale with Chorizo), Coffee-Cocoa Glaze. The Tenderloin is wrapped in Hoja Santa Leaves and cooked sous-vide before hitting the grill.

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^ Quail – stuffed with Blue Corn and Dates, wrapped in Serrano Ham. With Date Fluid Gel, Paula’s Marscapone, Texas Honey Comb.

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^ L: The Quail; ^ R: Crispy Pork Confit Cake with seared Sea Scallop, Celery Root Purée, and Blood Orange Celery Leaf Salad.

Good Stuff!

TACA Lexus Party on the Green, The Mansion on Turtle Creek – Dallas

May 20th was the date for the annual bash at the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek supporting TACA Dallas, the arts benefactor that has awarded over $1,000,000 to North Texas arts organization in each of the last four years (and a total of over $19 million since 1967).

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^ Weather brought the party fully indoors this year; ^ the chefs assembled.

Chef’s stations occupied the Pavilion Ballroom, the Promenade, the restaurant dining rooms, and the upstairs event suites.

The dishes:

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^ L: Wolfgang Eberle, Al Faisaliah Hotel – Pan-Seared Scallops with Hummus and Pomegranate.

^ R: Fabrice Guisset, Las Ventanas al Pariso – Chicken Pibil on Avocado and Wasabi Tostada.

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^ L: Ned Bell, Rosewood Hotel Georgia – Ocean Wise Albacore Tuna Tacos.

^ R: Hemant Dadlani, Rosewood Little Dix Bay –  Harissa Lamb Loin with Tamarind “Moong Chaat.”

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^ L: Kevin Garvin, Neiman Marcus – Crab Cocktail with Cucumber and Basil Soup, Watermelon, Hearts of Palm and Avocado.

^ R: Sharon Hage, formerly of York Street – Green Tomatoes with Local Chevre, Pistachio-Mint Cucumbers and Crumbled Texas Cornbread.

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^ L: Anthony E. Dawodu, Caneel Bay – Caribbean Conch Spring Roll with Papaya Salsa and Mango Barbecue Sauce.

^ R: Yann Giacomoni, Jumby Bay – Shrimp with Hibiscus Sauce and Confit Sweet Potato.

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^ L: Tim Byres, Smoke – Smoked Allspice Rabbit Sausage with Fresh Herb Salad and Pickled Relish Vinaigrette. Always fun stuff from Tim.

^ R: Brian C. Luscher,  The Grape – Country-Style Duck Terrine with Dried Fruit, Pistachios and Foie Gras. 

Luscher’s was one of my favorites. I was asked to be among a handful of judges to award the best dish. This was at the top of my list. I was over-ruled however – so, moving on…  

Intermezzo time. I joined Mansion Sommelier and Wine & Beverage Director Michael Flynn in the Hospitality Suite for my kind of refreshment – Krug!

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^ A lovely view from the suite’s terrace. Back to it:

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^ L: Juan A. Rosado, Rosewood Crescent Hotel – Slow-Roasted Pork Belly, Smoked Rosemary Oil and Masa Onion Tart.

^ R: Peter Rudolph, Rosewood Sand Hill – Louisiana Grey Shrimp with Asparagus, Potato Mousse, Chorizo and Candied Peanuts.

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^ L: Scott Romano, Charlie Palmer at The Joule – Rabbit Agnolotti with Sweet Peas, Root Vegetables, Black Garlic and Rabbit Jus. Nice.

^ R: Graham Dodds, Bolsa – Veal Cheeks Braised in Milk and Graham’s Honey with Local Greens.

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^ L: Luca Rutigliano, CordeValle – Pressed Watermelon and Crab Salad with Chili-Lime Dressing.

^ R: Daniel Echasseriau, Rosewood Corniche – Lamb Kofta over Hummus and Tabbouleh on Grilled Pita Bread.

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^ L: Teiichi Sakurai, Tei-An – Seaweed Salad with Shrimp.

^ R: Jacques Sorci, The Carlyle – Beef Short Ribs with Carrot Puree, Brussels Sprouts and Zinfandel Sauce.

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^ L: Bruno Davaillon, Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek – Lobster Tartare with Fennel Puree, Bouillabaisse Jelly and Green Olive Crostini. My favorite version of this dish from Bruno.

^ R: Chefs know what’s up – congregating around Sharon Hage are Tei-An Chef/Owner Teiichi Sakurai, Mansion Exec Chef Bruno Davaillon, and outgoing Mansion Exec Sous, Eric Brandt (it was Eric’s last night!).

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^ Nicolas Blouin, Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek‘s new Pastry Chef created this Lollipop Flower Garden. We ate the many styles of these delightful confections late into the evening.

Taca-dessert-1 Another great night at The Mansion with an impressive turnout by patrons and the chefs alike.

Luisa Rocca drops by Veritas Wine Room – Dallas

So last Wednesday I headed over to a favorite hangout, Veritas Wine Room, to sample some Rocca wines.

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The lovely Luisa Rocca was on hand with some nice selections.

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Though a nice number of bottles were sold to a couple Veritas regulars, we were disappointed that everyone stayed in as the weather threatened.

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^ So we busted out the good stuff and headed to the parking lot to enjoy the show. It was a treat to have Luisa tell the story of the special and excellent Rocca Maria Adelaide Barbaresco – the 2006 Rabajà was also well received! We packed up shop and headed for Hibiscus down the street. See next post.

Chef John Tesar’s Premiere Dinner at The Table – Dallas

Check this out:

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JT knew what he was doing when he conceived a new use for this space adjoining his buzzing The Commissary at One Arts Plaza. Another magical room emerges in Dallas.

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^ Some friends gather for Chef John Tesar’s Premiere Dinner at The Table on May 2. As it was a Monday we were joined by the Uygur’s from Lucia, The Mansion‘s Bruno Davaillon and Michael Flynn, Tim Byres of Smoke, and One Arts Plaza neighbor Tei-An‘s Teiichi Sakurai (That’s a ghostly Scott Barber at right, doing somm duties this evening).

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^ a nod to a Tesar favorite, Mugaritz. …obviously we “submit.”

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The Table will feature canapés, 4 – 6 courses, cheese, pre-dessert, dessert, and candy cart. Tonight we were treated to 13 courses – I mean, how often do we get THIS group together for dinner…?

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^ canapés: fava bean and pecorino salad; Spicer’s pumpkin blossom with Paula’s riccotta; molten foie gras ball; seared tuna; clam consommé.

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^ bread from Empire Bakery; and the amuse-bouche – octopus salad.

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^ oyster consommé with american sturgeon caviar; and faux cuttle fish pasta with iberico pork and lemon fondue – raves.

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^ seared diver scallop and beef tongue with mint salsa verde; and little neck clam and honj meni mushroom risotto with fine herbs and clam emulsion.

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The Table concept is a reimaginning of Tesar’s Chef’s Table at The Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek – for a different time. Elegant, approachable – casual and fun. And priced at a discount.

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^ a mid course: fried duck egg in brown butter with white oregon truffles; and pork belly with uni, lardo, shiso and white oregon truffles.

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^ butter poached lobster with melted leeks, port syrup and raw foie gras; and whole roasted sweet breads with Spicer’s micros, shaved truffles and truffle vinaigrette.

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^ artisanal cheeses!

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^ Pastry chef Corey Thomson’s pre-dessert: strawberry panna cotta with roasted strawberries and strawberry foam; and dessert: yuzu and lime tart with green tea ice cream.

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Corey bagging candy to go.

Nice. The Table begins.