The Brad's Adventures in Food

Tom Colicchio and David Ramey Pack the Crack House, Craft Dallas.

Whatever... so Craft is in Victory Park, so Colicchio has ventures from coast-to-coast, so he's the co-host of a (pretty fun) reality show... the place is still quite good. My friends and I refer to it as "Crack," as in "they sprinkle crack on each dish as it is whisked from the kitchen to your table." Colicchio's philosophy of attempting to extract the essence of each ingredient seems to be generally adhered to at Craft Dallas. A favorite dish of mine is actually served at brunch on occasion: Hash of Shishito Peppers and Duck Confit - crack.

As it was my friend Michelle's birthday, her husband Jeff got a group of us together for a recent wine dinner featuring Colicchio and winemaker David Ramey in attendance. Tom joked to the packed house that it was great to actually see the restaurant full. I have to agree, it's a truly handsome room - one of my favorites in town - but it's usually a tad less booked than on this particular evening. We enjoyed the energy of the full room.

^ Canapés w/ 2006 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay.

^ Tai Snapper, Shellfish Ragout & Black Garlic w/ 2005 Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay, Carneros.

^ Pancetta-Wrapped Monkfish, Porcini & Spring Onions w/ 2005 Claret; Roasted & Braised Guinea Hen, Fava Bean Raviolini w/ 2005 Larkmead Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon.

^ Elysian Fields Lamb, Crispy Belly & Morels w/ 2005 Rodgers Creek Vineyard Syrah; Chocolate-Hazelnut Turnover, Brandied Cherries & Vanilla-Mint Ice Cream... and we drank ALLOT more wine.

^ Crack Packs.

I have eaten here a number of times and Jeff & Michelle are actually regulars. We are accustomed to excellent service and delicious food - during this event we got that, with a few caveats. There were some issues getting the food out in a timely fashion, and in general the dishes later in the meal seemed more on par with previous visits. Our group had a great time, our server knew our party and kept the excellent wine flowing, Michelle got to meet Tom, and Jeff and I enjoyed chatting with the very personable David Ramey (who does a rather nice job making wine).

^ There's Tom after service (far right).

Colicchio says he plans to do more of these dinners, and why not? He's a restaurateur who's presence can pack the house. I think they learned a few things this time around. Based on the winemaker's they pair with in future, I'll likely attend again. Meanwhile, I encourage jaded food lovers to dine here once in a while, and look for that Crack Hash at brunch. I certainly have no problem with celebrity chefs when their restaurants serve quality food. Now I'll pack this post, and go.

Find the calm: a moment or two @ Tei-An

The prelude to a wonderful tale, and a reminder of what it's all about:

 

^ Hokkaidō Uni, Four Ways; Line Caught Spanish Mackerel. 

... please...

"Lite" Lunch at Masaryk - Addison Circle

Not that chef Gabriel DeLeon needs any more press (his PR machine is in full swing), but I thought I'd post some pics from lunch. The buzz on Masaryk has brought many new faces to Addison Circle, which is also home to Avanti Neighborhood Bistro, Antonio's, Greenz, Kampai Sushi, Pastazio's, Astoria Caffe, Fit Cafe, and my local, Zen Bar. 

^The A.C.

^Masaryk Modern Mexican Kitchen.

^Lunch Specials: Two Enchiladas/Eggs; Two Enchiladas/Beef Taco.

^Enchilada/Pork Tamale/Beef Taco (Spinach Enchilada w/ Cream of Spinach Reduction); My own concoction: the Top Shelf Burrito w/ Shredded Pork and Tomatillo Salsa.

Deli in Dallas? "Oy vey iz mir!" Chapter: Roaster's

Yeah, yeah... I've been here, I've been there. NYC's greatest hits, even LA haunts ... I get deli. Dallasites bicker back and forth - feh! We don't have it here, so let's have fun with what we do have. I, personally, was enamored of Gilbert's, sadly missed these last few years.

Enter Roaster's (in the former Ed's Deli space). 

It comes with the familiar trappings:

Yep, yep... triggering happy memories...

^ My guests enjoyed these selections.

^ National Deli Beef Salamies hanging to dry; I opted for the Hard Salami Sandwich - Carnegie Style (sliced from these hanging beauties, once enough moisture has evaporated - this takes at least a month). For scale: that's not a lemon wedge on the plate, it's an orange slice.

It's just a big mess. Once slathered in mustard, it's two meals of goodness. Debate is passionate about this establishment's pastrami purveyor, and other issues - but this sandwich made me happy. So there.

...and who can't love this eclair... come on.

Meanwhile the Zinsky’s people think they will make everybody happy... Mazal tov!

Burguesa serves a big sloppy mess of good!

I saw a way-too-perfect food shot of Burguesa's formidable La Monumental on a local food blog... and decided to investigate. Jeff Sinelli, founder of Which Wich and Genghis Grill (where you will find us at lunch about once a week... my bowl RULES, btw) has created a "Mexican Burger Joint" that is worth the trip.

^ Best way to describe the location (see orange blip below Sonny's sign); and a close-up (with an unfortunate hovering message - that should cycle out soon enough, one would hope).

^ A kinder view; "Gimmie gimmie!"

^ La Monumental: Two beef patties, two slices of cheese, ham, avocado, lettuce, tomato, onion, refried beans, crunchy tostada, and special creamy sauce on a Bimbo® sesame seed bun, crowned with a whole jalapeño pepper; Strawberry Milkshake and a Donut.

There is no outside seating, so I raced to a parking lot and unwrapped this savory amalgam - not quite as pretty, but it could not have been more satisfying... messy, crunchy, gooey... mushy but with bite... weird, and great. I liked it just fine. I am also a big fan of French fry sauces that are not ketchup (more on this later) - and the spicy mixture provided fit the bill.

I say give it a shot - it's different, fun, and delicious.

First Look: Cobb Switch BBQ

Ran over to Cobb Switch today for lunch – thought I’d post some pics.

We thought the porch had a great feel, the door pictured here leads to the bar, which is separated from the dining room (below).

^ A slab of Brisket; The Frito Pie (Pete really liked this).

^ The Jalapeño and Cheese Sausage and Brisket, Potato Salad and Slaw.

Fine, but the real hit: the Fried Pies! 

^ Apricot Fried Pie; and a delicious version with Apple and Cranberry.

They also offered Cherry and Chocolate. Good stuff, indeed.

Dali exhibit at the Beard House - a preview:

Dali Wine Bar & Cellar Chef Joel Harloff and proprietor Paul Pinnell have been invited to prepare dinner at the James Beard House on June 8th. The menu will be matched with wines from Hall Napa Valley. Talking with Joel, who has previously cooked at the Beard House while chef at the Melrose, I was surprised to hear of the logistical challenges involved with pulling off a dinner at the House. It’s far more dramatic than I had imagined – for instance, the team only has access to the kitchen from 8am on the day of the event, causing visiting chefs to beg borrow and steal square footage from chef pals with nearby New York kitchens. Joel will be bringing a number of chef colleagues from around the country to help him prepare the meal for 75 Beard Foundation members, food journalists, friends and family. This past Sunday I attended a preview dinner at Dali, featuring most components of the meal that will be prepared on June 8th.

^ Chef Joel Harloff and his "three guys" work wonders from the small, open kitchen at Dali.

^ Roasted Octopus with Capers, Smoked Paprika and Endive; Triple Cream Brie Meltaways (w/ Hall Napa Valley Savignon Blanc 2008).

^Citrus Marinated Crab Crostini; the menu.

^ Dali proprietor Paul Pinnell welcomes the guests; the wines of Hall Vineyards, Napa (with excellent stand-in's for the the unavailable Hall Darwin Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon Blend 2005, Jack's Masterpiece Cabernet Sauvignon 2005, and the Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc 2005).

^ Brazos Valley Texas Brie and Wild Mushroom Soup with Duck Confit and Fresh Thyme Crostini (Hall Napa Merlot 2005); Grilled Texas Quail with Fresh Herb Polenta and a Pomegranate-Syrah Reduction (Dierberg Syrah 2005).

^ Porcini Braised Beef Short Ribs with Yukon Gold-Parsnip Puree, Petite Spinach, and a Cabernet Demi Glace (Hall Cabernet Sauvignon 2005).

^ Seared and Smoked Veal Tenderloin with Asiago Mashers, Roasted Garlic Washington State Mushrooms and a Fresh Blueberry Veal Sauce (La Jota Cabernet Sauvignon 2003).

^ Brazos Valley Texas Blue Cheese with Blackberry Sauce and Lavosh (Kathryn Hall Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2005).

^ Spiced Pecan-Apple Bread Pudding with Creme Anglaise and Dried Apricot Compote (Château Cantegril Sauternes 2005).

Afterword, Chef Harloff chatted with guests and discussed refinements and adjustments he'd like to make for the event in NYC.  View the planned menu here.

Time for a cold one, elBulli style.

This is an open call to all my Chef and Sommelier pals: Somebody get some of this - NOW!

Ferran Adrià, famed chef of the impossibly brilliant elBulli restaurant in Roses, Spain, has teamed with Damm brewmasters to create INEDIT, a beer specifically designed to pair with serious modern cuisine. "Inedit is a unique coupage of barley malt and wheat with hop, coriander, orange peel, liquorice, yeast and water. After bottling and capping, a secondary fermentation in the bottle occurs, leading to a more complex product." Sounds good to me!

Sharon in the House!

Well, even though the James Beard people persist in forestalling an acceptance speech by Chef Sharon Hage (FIVE nominations!)... we are all winners here, by her presence at the forefront of Dallas dining. I will be heading back to York Street very soon, but in the meantime - a look at a winter lunch I enjoyed a few months ago:

Perusing the wonderful menu with a little White Burgundy (surprise).

^ Soft Poached Duck Egg, with Polenta, Roast Local Chile, Corn Truffle, Queso Fresco.

^ Lobster Salad, "Lemon-y" Avacado & Endives; THE best Hummus in town - she must put crack in it.

^Scottish Game Ragu, with Risotto Rosso; Sautéed Monkfish Liver, Texas Sweet Lemon-Caper Brown Butter, Parsnip Puree. Ankimo is my favorite thing... and this dish frickin' slayed me.

We wrapped it up with some Bread Pudding and Tea. Lunch at York Street is served Wednesdays only. A winner, for sure.

A Night at Aurora - Spring 2009

Avner announced he was off to Spain. I thought... "this should be good, and as it happens... I'm due back at Aurora after a bit of a spell." Soon enough, Avner returned from Spain... with a fresh perspective, and ideas on how to share his particular penchant for excellence with an evolving clientele, in a challenging marketplace. I made a call and booked in for a recent Friday service. Neither for good nor bad, Aurora has evolved. A bit less austere, warmer, rather inviting in fact. Gone are the white tablecloths - instead handsome woods set the tone, while service remains impeccable.  I happen to be enamored of this particular incarnation. Happily, the new comfortable decor retains a favorite feature of mine... the proscenium:

The open kitchen at Aurora is gorgeous. Any armchair chef worth his fleur de sel would drool at the glinting copper and stainless symmetry. The evocative etched glass wall provides an elegant frame through which to watch Avner Samuel deliver often stunning food, fueled by his fiery passion for excellence - and his occasional, (in)famous fireworks. The following is a record of my evening close to the flame.

Well, that's all very dramatic - in fact, Aurora is anything but scary these days - Avner is as passionate as ever; his lovely wife Celeste - the consummate host. The food: excellent - with options for those feeling a bit more frugal than, let's say, last year.  Lunch is a particular bargain (seriously). Don't get me wrong... you can still ring up a tab if you so choose. It's up to you. This evening, I documented a series of dishes offered for a special tasting menu (always my favorite subject) ...you may commence with the drooling. (As I was "on the line," many dishes are shown in progress - things move very quickly and plates are whisked away. Enjoy the show!)

^Salt cured Merluza, Tomato Carpaccio, organic extra virgin Olive Oil and Basil Oil, Osetra Caviar, and Hibiscus Salt.

^ Chilled Beet Parfait with Escargot Caviar.

^ Farm Egg Custard baked in shell topped with Meyer Lemon Creme, house cured Salmon and Chives.

^ Diver Scallops topped with Black Winter Truffles and Escargot Caviar; Clams Casino with Spanish Chorizo, Piquillo Peppers and Brioche.

^ Lobster, Pork Cheeks and Duck Confit with Truffle Foam and Veal Jus; Bouquet of Greens with roasted Heirloom Beets and Black Truffle Goat Cheese in Phyllo.

^ Viennoise of Dover Sole with Diver Scallop on Pomme Puree and Champignons de Paris Sauce (a favorite dish of mine); Braised Cocks Comb on Fricassee of Wild Mushroom and Veal Jus.

^ Razor Clams with Wild Leek Flower and Sea Water; House made Grapefruit Sorbet on top of Mint Leaves and Pomegranate Seeds.

^ A perfectly theatrical presentation: Chateaubriand for two finished off on Antique Iron.

^ Foie Gras with White Chocolate Yellow Corn Sauce, Butternut Squash and White Truffle Foam; Grass fed Beef Tenderloin Rossini style, marble Truffle Potato.

...not done yet...

^ Sea Bass with Potato Churiso Croquette, Baby Artichocke, Baby Spinach and Pimenton Oil; Kobe Beef with Black Vine (bread dough with squid ink) Okra, English Peas, Pearl Onion, Onion Marmalade.

^ Sea Bass with Beet infused Israeli Couscous, Swiss Chard and Brussel Sprouts.

^ A literal mouthful: Degustation of Aurora Desserts (Mascarpone Crème with Ice Coffee Granite and Lemon Gelee; Dark Chocolate Popping Bomb with Passion Fruit and Prickly Pear sauce orbs; Poached Pink Lady Apples in White Wine Syrup with Clove Honey Roasted Cereal and crispy Bacon Ice Cream; Baba au Rhum Monte Carlo with Pineapple Ice Crème; Brown Sugar poached Golden Pineapple).

My date, the lovely "Jet," maintains that she was entertained during the five hours of my hopping up every 5 minutes.... That is - with the help of some White Burgundy (I still recall the days before I became addicted... ignorance of this stuff was bliss), grazing on the occasional plate, and Celeste's good conversation. 

Without doubt, this is seductive cuisine. I encourage the curious as well as past fans to take a look at the enticing lunch menu currently being offered, and make a point to put dinner on the schedule.